Who says Batik is only exist in Java?
Sasirangan cloth, for example, that categorized as batik clearly comes from Borneo. Originally, Sasirangan used or its believed to cure people who suffered from a disease (pamintaan); the cloth also used during traditional ceremonies Banjar tribe. The dye used for Sasirangan usually taken from the natural dye materials, such as ginger, water of banana tree, and pandanus.
Junjung Buih Princess
During the XII to XIV century, in the Kingdom of Dipa, Community of South Kalimantan has known type of batik cloth, called Kain Calapan – later known by Sasirangan.
According to the legend, Sasirangan was made at the first time when the Patih (which is means the prime minister in English) Lambung Mangkurat was conducting asceticism for 40 days and 40 nights on the raft of balarut banyu. At the end of his asceticism, the raft arrived at the Rantau Kota Bagantung area. Suddenly, a woman’s voice was heard from the mound of foam in front of him. The woman is Junjung Buih Princess, who later became Queen in Banua.
However, the princess said that she will come to the surface if her requests are fulfilled, i.e., a Palace of Batung and should be completed in one day. The cloth is not an ordinary cloth; but the woven and colored by 40 people with a motive of wadi or padiwaringin wadi.
Sasirangan cloth is made by barrier coloring process that uses barrier cloth such as rope, yarn or the like. However, barrier-coloring techniques can block certain sites or the penetration of dye solution is impassable.
Since there is no special equipment required, the manufacturing process was often done in the home industry. Moreover, to get a motive or a particular style, simply by hand sewing techniques as well as bonds.
Raw materials that commonly used are cotton fiber cloth. Because, the production of tie-dyed cloth is still in line with barrier-dip process; as well as batik and traditional textiles. Currently, the development of raw material is increase since the non-cotton materials, such as polyester, rayon, silk, and others are diversified.
Design or pattern derived from sutures and bonding techniques, which is determined by several factors such as its color composition and appearing effect as well as the type of yarn/binder cloth.
Sasirangan will be more attractive and modern look by combining each original motiffs. More over, the motifs are modified, thus creating a very beautiful pattern but did not leave its characteristics.
The color or the best-known motifs are Kembang Kacang, Ombak Sinapur Karang, Bintang Bahambur, Turun Dayang, Daun Jaruju, Kangkung Kaombakan, Kulit Kayu, Sarigading, and Parada.
At the beginning, most of Sasirangan motifs are used for laung(headband), kekamban (veil), and tapih bumin (sarong). Later, it has diversified in to kebaya, hem (shirt), scarf, veil, tablecloths, handkerchiefs, sheets, and others. Sasirangan daily- used by men and women both for official and unofficial events.
First, sewing the cloth. Cloths were cut in properly size, tailored to woman or men cloth. Then the cloth is drawn with traditional motifs, and then distantly sewn by hand, following the existing pattern. Then, thread the stitching to tighten the stitches. The cloth is ready to enter the next process.
Second, the preparation of color source. All of batik dye can be used for coloring the Sasirangan cloth. In the past, dye usually taken from the natural dye, such as ginger, water of banana tree, or pandanus. Nowadays, naphtol with its salt is frequently used as dye. Meanwhile, as caustic soda (NaOH), TRO / spirtus, and boiling hot water were used as supporting materials.
Process: firstly, dye is diluted/made into pasta by adding the TRO/spirtus, and then stirred until it is completely dissolved.
After all substances are dissolved, add a few drops of caustic soda. Finally, add the hot water and cold water as necessary; with a note: the solution must be transparent and clear.
Thus, the process of dissolving naphtol pigments is finished, and it can be used to dye cloth Sasirangan.
Furthermore, to create the desired color then caused or naphtol must be emerged with salt. To dissolve the salt, add hot water gradually, stirring vigorously, so that the whole substance is dissolved, and obtained a clear solution. The number of solutions tailored to the needs.
So, naphtol and salt solution can be used to dye the Sasirangan cloth. First of all, rub or brush the naphtol to the sewn cloth, and brush / rub salt solution, so the colors appear on Sasirangan is suite to the desired color.
After all cloths were colored, laundry the cloths, laundry until the water no longer colored. Remove the stitches on the clean cloth, so the ex-sewn motifs appear in between the colors on the cloth.
At this point, the process of making cloth Sasirangan completed. After dried, and ironed, the Sasirangan cloth it is ready to be marketed.